At Pickford’s Counter, a slice of Tampa history gets a culinary reboot And free appliance pick up

© Douglas R. Clifford/Times/Tampa Bay Times/TNS Strawberry Milkshake, made with vanilla ice cream, strawberry syrup, creme fraiche and sprinkles, is available at Pickford's Counter, 2606 West Hillsborough Ave., in Tampa. TAMPA — In the 1950s, Pickford’s Sundries was the kind of place you would go for milkshakes and malts, pancakes and egg creams, grilled cheese sandwiches and hamburgers. You might also swing by to play a few tunes on the old jukebox or to pick up a toothbrush, a set of replacement keys or greeting cards, and maybe a household appliance or two. © Douglas R. Clifford/Times/Tampa Bay Times/TNS Pickford's Hotdog, a Chicago-style dog prepared with three types of onions, tomato, sweet pickle relish, poppy seeds, celery salt, chives and dijon aioli, served with fries, is available at Pickford's Counter, 2606 West Hillsborough Ave., in Tampa. A lot has changed since Casimir Lesiak first opened his store, but even all these years later, stepping inside the pale pink art deco building imbues a bit of a time warp effect, from the original lunch counter still on display to the vintage pinball machine holding court in the corner. The space, which is owned by Lesiak’s granddaughter Marie Lesiak Haley, sat vacant for several years. In June, the Hillsborough Avenue building became home to two new ventures under the same roof — the relocated Urban Bungalow home essentials and gift shop; and Pickford’s Counter, a breakfast and lunch spot from chefs Benjamin Pomales and Adrianna Siller. The new hybrid business is a team effort, run by partners Pomales and Siller, Urban Bungalow’s David Hansen and Martin Casanova, and Joshua Weaver, of St. Petersburg’s Bandit Coffee Co. © Douglas R. Clifford/Times/Tampa Bay Times/TNS Benjamin Pomales, of Tampa, co-owner and executive chef at Pickford's Counter, left, scrambles a batch of eggs for a serving of Tres Tacos while working the kitchen with chef de cuisine Adrianna Siller, of Dade City, background, on Tuesday, Aug. 4, 2020 at the restaurant in Tampa. The pairing — Urban Bungalow’s little-bit-of-everything appeal coupled with the kitchen’s modern spin on a retro luncheonette — feels right at home here. Both Pomales and Siller cut their teeth working for chef Ferrell Alvarez: Pomales, most recently as chef de cuisine at Alvarez’s Seminole Heights restaurant Rooster & The Till, and Siller, as sous chef at the restaurant group’s Lakeland location of Gallito Taqueria. The pair designed the menu largely with the building’s history in mind, but with the modern touches and culinary knowhow from two chefs who clearly have their sights set high. Milkshakes ($6) were a given, but the four versions here give the soda fountain classic a playful reboot, each one made with a different dairy or non-dairy ice cream base. There’s the Cafe con Leche, made with coffee from Bandit Coffee Co. and oat milk, a chocolate shake made with rice and almond milk, a passion fruit “dreamsicle” made creamy with coconut milk, and a classic strawberry shake that arrives topped with bright pink sugar sprinkles and is made with homemade strawberry syrup, whole milk and heavy cream. There are diner standbys that get reimagined like hash browns ($9), served here with whipped deviled eggs and a green tomato relish, and a hot dog ($9), made from ground top round and brisket from local beef purveyor Providence Cattle. The dog gets a healthy “drag through the garden” and is topped with tomatoes, three different kinds of onions, pickled radishes and is served on a seeded bun. Not everything here rings nostalgic Americana. The salsa macha fried rice ($9) incorporates both Asian and Latin influences. It might seem like a simple dish at first glance but just one bite reveals an intricate tapestry of flavors and textures, from the spicy, smoky salsa macha made with boiled peanuts to the just-poached egg topping the bowl of crispy-edged jasmine rice. A creamy garlic tofu puree acts like an aioli and the dish is finished with plenty of crunch from fried garlic, shallots, pistachios and pepitas. © Douglas R. Clifford/Times/Tampa Bay Times/TNS Skeleton key blanks, a remnant from the 1950's era Pickford's Sundries, remains on display on Tuesday, Aug. 4, 2020 at Pickford's Counter, 2606 West Hillsborough Ave., in Tampa. The Chipotle Chicken Sammi ($12) is a nod to a similar Panera Bread creation (both Siller and Pomales worked their first restaurant jobs at different Panera locations). The version here is a decadent homage to the memory slathered in a buttery Asiago cheese mix that renders the crust extra crispy and comes oozing melted Muenster cheese. It’s a fiery sandwich that packs plenty of heat from an ancho chili sauce but carries just the right amount of pucker from pickled chayote squash to counter the heat. © Douglas R. Clifford/Times/Tampa Bay Times/TNS Vintage eyewear remains on display on Tuesday, Aug. 4, 2020 at Pickford's Counter, 2606 West Hillsborough Ave., in Tampa. Some additions to the menu have been requests from customers. When someone asked for a Cuban sandwich, there was some hesitation at first — after all, weren’t there plenty of other places nearby that peddled the Tampa standby? But after some consideration, and a challenge (make a Cuban sandwich that wasn’t too dry) they came up with the Cubano French Dip ($12). Here, ham gets whipped with paprika and bacon fat into a whimsical take on ‘nduja (an Italian spreadable pork) and paired with braised pork shoulder, a Dijon aioli, Swiss cheese and pickles. In an effort to emulate the classic combination of roast pork and black beans, the sandwich is served with an au jus dipping sauce made with black beans and pork drippings. Since its late June opening, the chefs have experimented with a number of different iterations of the menu, finally landing on the one they have today. In the coming months, they hope to expand it more, still looking to the past for inspiration along the way. Dine in Seating inside includes a handful of tables and a few cozy booths, but with the current COVID-19 restrictions capacity is still very limited. Diners can order at the counter but there is currently no table service. Outside the restaurant, a few tables with umbrellas provide a shaded waiting area or space for outdoor dining, if desired. Take out Diners can order and pay online and either come inside to pick up their food or opt for the recommended curbside pickup by mentioning their car model and color in the instructions. The full menu is also available on Uber Eats. If you go Where: 2606 W Hillsborough Ave., Tampa. (813) 308-9668; pickfordscounter.com Hours: Breakfast and lunch, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. Coffee and retail, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. Prices: Milkshakes and drinks, $4 to $6; breakfast and lunch items, $8 to $14. Don’t skip: Salsa macha fried rice, chipotle chicken sammi. Take out/delivery: Online ordering and curbside pickup available. Full menu is available on Uber Eats. Safety measures: Masks are required inside at all times unless sitting down and eating. ——— ©2020 the Tampa Bay Times (St. Petersburg, Fla.) Visit the Tampa Bay Times (St. Petersburg, Fla.) at www.tampabay.com Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.